Before You Sell Your Truck
Jun 16


Two resistors, four diodes, some wire, FREE software, and an old laptop
gets you a high accuracy, digital MPG readout on your vehicle.

The Problem:

You are handed the answer to incredible gas savings (you have checked out the Water4Gas conversion, right??), it’s simple to build, will work on your existing vehicle with no fuss, but…

So how do you know EXACTLY how much
you are saving? You need to know if it’s a 20% improvement or a 95% improvement, or what factors (like traffic, weather, payload) can really affect the savings. How do you make adjustments to get extremely high MPG?

What if you read about a great tweak on the GasSaverGarageBlog, then try it… but without a good MPG gauge, you won’t really know if it worked, or how well it worked?

Filling and re-filling your tank and counting miles is too time consuming, not to mention expensive and inaccurate.

Here’s What You Need:

You need a readout that tells you:

  • Exactly how far you have driven
  • Your exact MPG
  • Your MPG per trip, long or short
  • Data you can store and save for longer term analysis

And if it was damn near free, that would be great too…

Notes on the Setup:

  • This works on electronic fuel injected
    vehicles only
    (EFI and TBI), if you have an electronically
    controlled injection system, you are good. It won’t
    work on carb systems, mechanical fuel injection systems, or magnetic
    flux gate space drive systems.
  • You need to locate 2 signals on your vehicle:
    the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) and you need to tap
    into a wire going into the fuel injector. See additional
    notes on the VSS at the bottom of the page.*

Here’s the parts list:

  1. An old laptop (it just needs
    an audio input port, the ability to run Java (get Java -here- if it’s not already installed - yes it’s free). It needs enough battery or a 12 power supply to run in your vehicle as it’s driving
  2. An audio cable that plugs into your audio port, should be stereo. This can be an old cord from a set of headphones.
  3. Enough wire to go from your engine compartment to the laptop in the cabin
  4. Four diodes (1N4004 will work), two resistors (10k Ohm), some tape or shrinkwrap

Get the FREE software you will need to run on your laptop: -MPG Software- **

How to Build It:

1. Per the very simple circuit diagram, solder the components together (you really don’t need a proto board, just solder
them together and tape them carefully, you can always make it secure and nice once it’s working).

2. Locate your VSS signal and run a wire from it to the circuit and then to the Left Audio input

3. Locate an injector and run a wire from one of its signal wires to the circuit and then to the Right Audio input

4. Run a wire from the vehicle’s ground to the audio cable’s ground wire, as close to the injector and VSS connections
as possible (reduces noise on the signal)

5. Plug the audio cable into yourlaptop, and make sure you have a sound recording program (Windows comes with one if you don’t already have one)

6. Download and install the -MPG program- (also update your Java software if needed)

How to Run It:

Screen shot of the program running. Top left is the Properties File, top right is the folder with the files that make up the MPG program, middle is the readout, and the bottom is the raw feed. Note this is not connected to a vehicle, so the numbers are crazy… I wish my truck went 7,684 MPH and got infinite MPG!

1. Drive your vehicle at a constant speed for a determined distance (such as 60 MPH for 23.4 miles). Start and stop the audio recording during this interval. If you are not one of those talented people who can text on their phone, load a mag, re-organize the back seat, feed CD’s into the player, etc. while you drive, you might get an assistant to run the laptop.

2. Head back to the shop, and this time run the recorded audio file of your drive along with the MPG program. Basically you are feeding the info into the MPG program for analysis (change the properties file to point to your saved audio file).

3. Change the properties file as needed to compensate the distance traveled (compare to your odometer) and your speed reading (compared to the constant speed you were traveling). A tiny bit of math gets you calibrated for distance traveled.

4. Next you have to calibrate for fuel used. If you happen to have injector data, you can probably get there with some calculations, but most will probably not have this. Instead use the partial tank fill up method (use part of a tank of gas
while recording, then fill up noting how much gas was used). Change your fuel fudge factor in the properties file until it is correctly telling you fuel used.

5. Now that you are calibrated, you can feed the injector/VSS signals directly into the MPG program for real time data.

It’s easier than it looks, but if you get stuck, post a question here and the Build Team will get you on the right track.

Also, let us know how your build goes, or if you learned any cool new tricks to share with the group.

I’ll assume you have already gotten the Water4Gas conversion manual and hopefully are close to testing it with your new MPG software. The combination of these two simple but effective technologies can save you thousands of dollars… plus you won’t have to drive a tiny econo-box around town. If you haven’t, check it out here: Water4Gas.

I’ll talk to you soon,

* Notes on VSS (vehicle speed sensor):
The VSS is used to measure vehicle speed. It’s done differently on different vehicles, but it’s usually based on the rotation of some drive train part. If you have a manual you can usually find where this sensor is, and tap into a wire to get a good signal. It’s not to hard to make one also, just put a magnet on the driveshaft and a pickup sensor to count
rotations. You can easily calculate how many rotations equal a given distance. From there you can change the distance fudge number in the mpg properties file. Post a question if you need more detail.

** MPG software was originally posted by skewbe on gassavers.org. GasSaverGarage and GasSaverGarageBlog are
not affiliated with gassavers.org, but have tons of respect for their site, and skewbe for a great concept toward the MPG technology.

- Water4Gas Conversion -

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4 Responses to “Accurately Measure MPG in Your Vehicle- $9 of parts and an old laptop”

  1. Chris Says:

    I’m missing something here, how does the injector signal give me the fuel amount?

  2. admin Says:

    The injectors are valves, and the electrical signal is the amount they are open… so, if you measure the electrical signal, and then multiply by the number of injectors on the motor, you get total fuel into the motor.
    In this program (use the Properties file), though, there is a fudge factor to take this into account. The calibration takes into account the number of injectors (one injector for a throttle body, 4 on a 4 cylinder, 8 on an eight, etc.).
    Once it’s calibrated, it’s pretty dead on since it follows the engine controls exactly.
    It’s super easy to wire up, then it takes just a little effort to calibrate, then you are set.
    For multiple vehicles, just wire each one and leave the hookup in place, then make different Properties files for each vehicle. An old laptop can totally monitor all your cars…

  3. Chris Says:

    wow I stayed up practicaly all night putting this together for my accord. This is too cool. I’m having some problems though….
    The distance gauge works (pretty sure anyway, the numbers look good, big number if I go 2 miles, small number if I go .5 miles) so I guess I just need to get the fudge factor right…
    But the gas use number is way off, it makes no sense at all. I’m exhausted, could be I just did something stupid wrong, but any suggestions? I gotta go to work, maybe I should take a sick day and mess with this…..? Thanks

  4. admin Says:

    Hey Chris,
    Exactly on the distance part, just adjust your fudge factor and it’s done. Compare to a long and short trip on your odometer to verify.
    On the injector signal, make sure you are getting good clean pulses to the record program, if not, you might need to adjust the 10k ohm resistor (just don’t go too small too fast, it’s there to protect the computer input!!).
    Also, did you ground out shield on the wire to cut down on noise? Most people have not had a problem with this, but it’s a good idea to keep the signals clean.
    One more thing, don’t run the wires by anything that is “noisy”, like the alternator, the coil, other ignition wires, etc.!
    Keep us up to date.
    JD

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